Be still my beating heart, because I have Just Patterns Tatjana Trousers! The story begins some months ago. I was lamenting to Delphine that I could not buy the high waist double pleat trousers in my size from my favourite vintage shop which often stocks that kind of thing. The sizing just never works out for me. Turns out, Delphine also had on her plan the idea to make similar trousers. Even better that she knows how to make patterns, because I don’t!
Disclaimer: 1) As the technical editor for Just Patterns, I had access to an early version to try out and provide feedback. There is no obligation to post or write about any of the things I make 2) The fabric for this post was sponsored by Meter Meter. Note: no affiliate links in this post, i.e. I do not receive any commission from future sales.
Then, Meter Meter asked if I’d like to try fabric from the Meet Milk range and it was the ideal trouser weight (more on that later), so that was a match made in sewing heaven. Whilst my sewing is not 100% perfect – there are things I would do differently next time (details below) – I am very happy overall. And I have 2 more pairs cut out: in wool, and also a lighter weight corduroy. I’m already thinking about heavyweight linen next summer!
Just Patterns Tatjana Trousers pattern details
High waist, double pleats on both front and back, fly front with zip, 4x pockets (front slash + back welt), belt loops.
I used the smooth drape twill from the Meet Milk range, in the emerald colour. It is 100% Tencel™; link here.
Meet Milk is a fabric brand owned by Meter Meter, a fabric shop in Denmark. It markets itself as a fabric brand containing more sustainable fibres and was probably the brand that brought Tencel into the EU / UK sewing market as a standard fibre that you see everywhere. If you have ever browsed an online fabric shop you will probably have seen it.
If you would like a “what is Tencel™” refresher, please see my blog post here.
For trousers, I like to choose fabrics that are a little bit heavier. 200gsm+ for me, otherwise they can feel a bit flimsy. Most Tencel on the market seems to be around the 150gsm mark, but this is 210gsm.
What I did
My sewing is not perfect on this one, because I forgot about a few things and there are also some things I would do differently next time:
- Reduction in the hip curve by about 4cm overall. On the Just Patterns size chart my hip is 38 and waist is 40. The reduction in hip curve worked out roughly the same as if I would have cut a proper size 38 at the hip. But I forgot to move the welt pocket!!! *facepalm* Therefore, as you can see from the side view, they are too close to the side.
For my next version I have chalked where I think it should go. Then I will baste it together to check before I sew.
- Removed the waistband extension at the front in favour of two hooks and bars. But, if you look closely you can see where it is now pulling unattractively at the front.
I have since replaced it with a visible button closure which is much better (forgot to take a picture of me wearing it but you can see it below). This is a button I ordered specially from Meet Milk as it was dyed to match the emerald exactly! Size is 25mm which I think is a good size for a 5cm waistband. Waistband notes coming up in a moment.
- High waist notes The very high waist means you need a 19cm zip, and the top of the waistband almost hits the top of my bottom rib. I might reduce the 5cm wide waistband to 4cm in future versions. But, another issue I encountered was the interfacing I used was not stiff enough and the waistband is drooping a little – see pics above and below. It would not have been an issue if the fabric had some structure, but Tencel™ is very fluid. A good reminder for next time!
- Last but not least, I am very happy with my choice of cotton lawn for the pocketing and the binding. If you are making all 4 pockets, you probably need a bit more of it than you think! But the insides look pretty, the cotton is stable and that makes a big difference. The zip colour doesn’t match exactly but oh well, can’t win them all. Also, you can see that the buttonhole area is a bit mangled from where I originally had sewn hooks and bars and then went on to wear the trousers a few times before changing to the button closure. Tencel™ does not take well to unpicking.
Dress her up, dress her down.
I tried to dress the Tatjana trousers up as you’ve seen with all the pictures. Then I dressed it down. I like them better dressed up. Can I go for a fancy dinner now? Or even lunch?
PS. Want to see the Tatjana trousers in action? Head to my Instagram reel video here.
Till next time